As I was planning a route, heading home, from Lyon I noticed an itinerary that would take me through Roanne and therefore into the wine region of Côte de Roannais. For some time I have wanted to look around this area and visit one particular vineyard, Domaine des Palais, which is situated in the commune of Ambierle. The N7 runs right alongside this village, what could be better?
It wasn’t long after lunch when I drove into the Domaine’s car park. It wasn’t long before dinner before I rolled out. What a welcome, what a delightful place and what delicious wines to sample.
As you stand in the courtyard you can see the priory in the village and below are the vineyards cascading down the hillside. Yann Palais explains that 15 years ago there was pasture where there is now Gamay basking in the late summer sunshine. After the Second World War, times were hard and a country needed feeding. Vines were a luxury too far and not profitable. He took over the domaine from his grandparents in 2000 and replanted it, mainly with the traditional vines but also diversifying, being amongst the first in the region to plant Viognier.
Together with his wife, Sylvie, Yann has developed the farm into a charming working vineyard that they should be very proud to own.
So what did I try? Firstly I tasted two vintages of their Viognier, the younger one 2013 rounder and more fruity (click here). The Palais believe in the minimum of intervention during the wine making which shows in their wine as each year is different, something that can’t be said about the mass produced commercial brands. After the Viogniers came a Roussanne, a variety associated with the Northern Rhône, Saint Péray especially where it is used in the production of both still and sparkling wine. Domaine Palais makes a sparkling Roussanne which I have yet to taste. The still Roussanne has dry honey-like and herbal flavours which would go very well with a chèvre.
Next I tried the two rosés. The first was charming. Fruity and fresh, ideal for the summer. The next was stunning and I say this as someone who is seldom impressed by rosés. The nose gave nothing away, being if anything, slightly restrained but in the mouth there was an explosion of flavours, fantastic fruit bombs. Fermentation is stopped just at the last minute leaving a touch of sweetness; this mix of the fruit and acids gives a wine that is poles apart from the mundane supermarket offerings.
Finally the reds. The Côte Roannaise is on the same rock formation as the Grand Crus of Beaujolais. The granite, the well-drained soil and the slightly more mountainous climate gives the Gamay a distinct character. The pure Gamay is fresh and lively with delicate spicy fruit flavours. The domaine also produces two cuvées where the Gamay is combined with Syrah. One is matured in oak for six months that gives a rounder, softer finish. The other still has the fruit and spice but is a touch more grippy, an old fashioned wine, if you like (click here). These blends are something Yann Palais is very pleased with and he describes them as his signature wines.
The last wine to mention, Le Temps des Griottes (click here), is possibly my favourite. 100% Syrah, it has a freshness and a crunchy quality and as the name suggests it is full of cherry flavours. The tannins are gentle with hints of spice. I can’t recall many wines similar to this one, a gem.
To find out more (click here in French)
(click here in French)
